dr martens size 10 Decoding ‘ugly chic’ in couture
Today couture isn just about the rarefied bar jacket or a floor sweeping gown with a lot of embellishments. With the rise of brands like Vetements (street credo being its core ethos) at the recently concluded Paris couture week, one sees the rise of the anti beauty aesthetic. The label creative head Demna Gvasalia had said, Vetements it always ugly, that why we like it The label collaborated with Brioni, Schott, Levi Comme des Garons Shirt, Reebok, Canada Goose, Dr Martens, Alpha Industries, Eastpak, Lucchesse, and Manolo Blahnik. Vetement waist high boots in duchess satin stood out driving Instagram into a frenzy.
Ugly Models, a modelling agency successfully operating since 1969, have built their entire business model on this realisation, one that has helped reel in prestigious clients such as Calvin Klein, Diesel, and Vogue. One keen to ask designers what exactly is chic in fashion.
Defining ugly is a challenge Designer Wendell Rodricks says, define ugly is a challenge. Especially in fashion where it is easier to define beauty. If fashion is celebrating ugliness, the trend will pass as an anti statement. Prism of the Fashion columnist Asmita Aggarwal says,
the 70s when Valentino and Oscar de la Renta were making beautiful gowns in red with ruffles, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo came and shook the edifice of fashion with black oversized ensembles which gave them the acronym, crows Beauty as they say, lies in the eyes of the beholder. Now there is a move towards comfort where fitted gowns are no longer de rigueur, as women are looking for comfort.
Ugly is too strong a word, I would call it anti fit where the wearer is not consumed by what he wears, rather clothes accentuate his personality and not take over it. Isn that the point of fashion? Vetements is an alternate label and they hope to offer something new and fresh, they are looking at fashion through the prism of the and that what makes them interesting! Fashion is celebrating uniqueness Sujata Assomull Fashion Editor Khaleej Times says, really am not for this use of the word But what I do I think is a positive development is the fact that fashion in celebrating uniqueness. It not just fitting that bill of conventional beauty. Which frankly is very boring. The industry is opening up to everyone. And that why I like it.
Be it the use of maturer women in campaigns as we have seen at Celine and more recently when Gucci had 79 year old actor and political activist Vanessa Redgrave in their cruise campaign the industry is addressing all women, not just those that tick the boxes. Ramp and street osmosis Designer Paromita Banerjee says, happening both ways ramp filters into the street and vice versa. Now the reverse is happening and designers are getting inspired the other way. Also, people on the street are getting more individualistic and wearing things their own way. It a cycle and we keep going back to the past. It an outfit at the end of the day and how much can you do with it? Generational shift in fashion Maithili Ahluwalia, owner Bungalow 8 says, couture industry has changed and many brands are now being headed by a new crop of designers. Olivier Rousteing at Balmain, Alessandro Michele at Gucci and Demna at Vetements are at the forefront of this wave. Even labels like Chanel and Valentino have grunge as part of their aesthetic now. In this Kardashian era, the couture muses and buyers have also changed. Also, I think the shift speaks to the closing of the gap between runway and retail. Designers under pressure Designer Payal Khandwala says, you helming a fashion brand, there a pressure to refashion and experiment. I don know Demna philosophy and what he trying to extend into couture. My question is are people be able to sit wearing those boots and walk around in them and bend their knees. Maybe a Beyonce can pull it of but Queen of Jordan may not buy it.